Tour De Mont Blanc (Day 1)

Planning tools...

Despite Mont Blanc dominating the horizon for the last three months, I had never been grabbed by challenge of going up it (I have other ideas for that adventure) but was keen to tackle the Tour of Mont Blanc. A circumnavigation of the Mont Blanc Massif through 3 countries, the Tour is probably best known to walkers as a classic hiking route taking up to 10 days, for trail runners it's the route of the UTMB, the quickest doing it in little over 20 hours!
Having scoured maps and blogs over the last couple of months I had decided to tackle it on the mountain bike in an anti-clockwise direction over three days. Being a popular waking route I was waiting until September when the trails and huts should be a bit quieter and a favourable weather forecast. With a couple of good days weather foreacast for Thursday and Friday (20th & 21st September) and a wet day Saturday I decided to give it a go.

With the mountain huts starting to close for the season, places to stay were becoming more limited so I opted to make the first day a long day. Therefore an early start to catch the first lift up the Bellevue, the only bike friendly lift still running in the Chamonix valley, was called for. Joining the mountaineers heading for the Mont Blanc I got a few quizzical looks getting into the cable car with a


Nice hair!!

bike! From the top of Bellevue, I chose the fire roads and tarmac into the Contamines valley to save 
time, the cold fingers were also not up to the more technical alternatives. This was just about the only "wasted" descent on the whole tour but at least it only cost 11euros rather than a couple of hours of climbing! Still the descent went on and on and I began to wonder whether one spare set of brake pads would be enough for the trip ahead.

 
Into the Contamines valley it was a mix of road and tracks along the valley bottom to Notre Damn de la Gorge, the easy climbing giving me chance to warm up in the chilly morning shade.  The impressive building however marked the start of the steeper climbing up to Col du Bonhomme.
 

Notre Damn de la Gorge

Immediately I was forced to push... with 1200m of climbing to the Col this could be a long one!! Fortunately the track soon eased and I was able to ride for a bit, making better progress but still not much quicker than the hiker heading up to Col du Fenetre with his dog. With a heavier pack than normal and a loose track, it was a mix of riding and pushing to La Balme at 1700m. From here on though it was pretty much pushing and hike a bike to the Col at 2329m. Fortunately by now I was into the sun and enjoying the warmth and views. At about 2000m I started to hit ice on the trail and whilst not an issue on the climb was a little concerned about the descent ahead. Reaching the Col, I was rewarded with...more climbing!! Although only a rising traverse to the Refuge and Col de la Croix Bonhomme at 2433m, the rocky path offered no more than a few metres of riding at a time. FINALLY I reached the Col and the first proper descent of the trip. My fears of ice on the trail were shortlived as the sweet singletrack descended into the sunny valley and Les Chapieux 900m below.

 

From here it was a pleasant spin along the road to the Refuge des Mottets at 1870m. This would have been my planned stopped for the day if it had been open but as I had made good progress to here was glad to be heading on. From here it was time to shoulder the bike again up to Col de la Seigne at 2516m and the Italian border.

Another long climb but at least it was to be the last of the day! From the top of the Col it was a short (well for the alps!) descent of 400m to my accomdation for the night, the Refuge Elisabetta.

As I made the short climb to the hut I met the friendly hut guardian on his way to Courmayer for supplies, cheerily he said "It's open, just make yourself at home." With a only a few other walkers at the hut it had a good atmosphere, great views and hearty food.

Stats for the day:
Distance covered ~54km
Height Gained (with legs) ~ 2400m
Height Gained (with lift) ~ 800m

Plenty more photos here.


Tour de Mont Blanc (Day 2)

Misty Start to Day 2

The first challenge for Day 2 was figuring out how to eat enough Muesli armed only with a coffee cup! Still, after a hearty breakfast there was not a lot to do but pack the bags and prepare for the day. Although a misty start in the valley, the odd glimpse of a mountain peak promised a good day ahead.

From the refuge it was an easy double track downhill and quickly passed those walkers who had set off a few minutes ahead. Saying my farewells to them I certainly got some jealous looks as this is one of the few sections where bike was definetly the easier option! From the refuge you could continue along the track into Courmayer but the main TdMB route soon turns off right up a steep hill. Having heard of a great descent along this section and never one to turn down a challenge set off up the hill. Almost 500m of pushing and hike a bike soon warmed me up though and the added height provided much nicer views of Val Ferret and Val Veni.




Worth the climb

Finally reaching the high point just beyond L arp Vieille Sup, I was rewarded with not only the warmth of the sunshine and stunning views of the peaks rising above the cloud, which I had now climbed above, but a view of a singletrack descent stretching into the distance. This was one of the highlights of the trip, not loosing that hard earned height to quickly but flowing enough to keep the speed up. The track descends into the lift system of Courmayer and pops out at the Refuge Maison Vieille with still another 700m of descent to Courmayer, now visible in the valley below. From here the descent steepens and although the odd bit of double track is mainly sweet singletrack with the odd more technical section.


Streets of Dolonne

Popping out into the picturesque village of Dolonne, with it's tight streets and old buildings the decision to be made was 10.30am too early for Pizza? With a long climb ahead it was a fairly easy descision and stopped at a bakery to pick up a couple of slices.


From Courmayer my route deviated for about the first time from the main Tour de Mont Blanc route and opted to take the tarmac option along Val Ferret rather than the walking route via the Bonatti hut. Beyond Entreves the road quietens down and it's a pleasant enough spin along Val Ferret with dramatic views of the steep paks on the Italian side of the Mont Blanc Massif.

There are plenty of places to stop for a break along the road and I pulled into the Cafe at Arnuva (cant remember the name!) just before the tarmac ends and the track steepens up to Refuge Elena and the Grand Col Ferret beyond. A quick caffine and sugar burst (why would anyone want "diet" or "zero" coke!) and a chance to offload some loose change and lighten the load it was time to climb again. By now I was already at 1769m so had already gained considerable height from Courmayer without really noticing, hopefully the next 800m would be the same. Up to the (closed) Refuge Elena the double track is all rideable but after this point it is time to shoulder the bike again for the last 400m to the Col, with only the last few metres of traverse rideable. With passport at the ready for the border guards (!!) it was into Switzerland and he third country of the tour.

Taking a quick break at the Col to put on warmer clothes, I spotted two riders coming up the track from the Swiss side. The two Belgium riders were the first bikers I had seen on the route and seeing them riding this section, I was pretty jealous of their light bikes and distinct lack of back packs, it turned out they had "support" (wifes) meeting them in Courmayer.

 

The descent into Switzerland was good fun, nothing too technical but nice flowing singletrack (starting to get bored saying this!). Once out the wind I stopped for the second slice of Pizza which I'd smuggled across the border and to take in the quality of the descending encountered on the trip so far.

By now I had given up on the idea of reaching Champex for the night and settled for La Fouly, whilst possible,  it would have been another very long day and with accomodation already reserved it was an easy descision to make.  This meant chance to stop for a coffee at the very Swiss looking refuge at La Peule and enjoy the sunshine. From here I blindly took the main TdMB route which followed double track to the valley bottom, there is an alternative descent from here which would have meant even more singletrack descent.

Arriving in La Fouly, which is a small Swiss Ski resort, I quickly found the accomodation for the night, it was the first building I came to! The decision to stop here for the evening was finalised by the fact that the sun was still shining on the veranda and a beer was definetly called for after another great day of riding. Although more Ski accomodation than mountain hut, the Auberge des Glaciers was a great little place to stay. Warm showers, great food, massive breakfast and stunning views of the Mont Blanc Glaciers which gave me chance to eye up some potential ski touring routes for the winter.

Stats for the Day:
Total distance ~45km
Total ascent ~2000m (all legs!)
Total descent ~2500m

More photos of the trip here.

Tour de Mont Blanc (Day 3)

Day 3 dawned as forecast; damp but certainly fortunately not heavy rain and fuelled by a massive breakfast I was soon keen to get going. From La Fouly you could easily make a quick dash down the road until the climb up to Champex but you would be missing out on the singletrack that follows the opposite back of the river.

Exposed!

This is the main Tour de Mont Blanc path but was blocked off by a farmer who had decided to put an electric fence around his cows. Looking menacing I decided to take the option of skirting the field which was not easy between electric fence and deep drainage ditch! Still the challenge was short lived and was soon on the main track. The path winds it's way down the valley and ranges from double track, techy rocky/rooty sections to exposed singletrack with optional handrail!

Eventually reaching Issert the descending ends and its time to start climbing to Champex 450m above. Following the magic mushroom trail (Can't remember the actual name but had something to do with mushrooms) it's a mix of riding and pushing. Champex is a picturesque little spot but in the rain I decided to keep going rather than run the risk of stopping and getting cold. From Champex the TdMB trail drops down more than I was expecting, knowing that I had to reach the top of the Bovine climb at 2000m every metre lost was to be gained again later!

Long Climb.

Finally the climb started, the first kilometer or so is rideable along a forest road but then it's time to shoulder the bike and start hiking! The woodland setting suited the wet weather but it was a long steep climb up to the Bovine alpage. By now my camera was getting wet and probably not helped by dropping it earlier in the day was not working at it's best...hence the lack of focus in the few photos that came out!

Finally the gradient eased off and I began to traverse around the hill reaching the hut and fine views of the Martigny valley below. After a few more meters of climbing a wooden double gate marks the start of the downhill to Col de Forclaz.

Like most of the descents on this route it was worth the climbing and 10seconds into it the hard work was forgotten! The woodland descent is pretty technical in parts and was made even more so by the wet roots and rocks. Unfortunately all too soon it pops out at the Col and the touristy hotel and souvenir shop. From the Col I opted to follow the walking path down to Trient rather than the marked VTT trail. This turned out to be the interesting option with steep rooty sections and wooden steps which were lethal in the wet. Having made it down to Trient in one piece it was time to refuel before the final climb, however I forgot one thing...never try buying lunch at lunchtime in Switzerland! With the shop shut the only option was a 20CHF omellette and dripping wet and muddy decided I wouldn't be that welcome in the Cafe.

Deciding I had just enough energy bars for the final climb I ploughed on down the main road towards to Les Jeurs and the climb to the Col des Posettes. If time was tight, the easier option here would be to plough on up the main road to Col des Montets but I realised if I did this would probably be back in Chamonix before the pub opened!

Feeling fully refreshed from all the descending the first few kilometers along the road past Les Jeurs was easy enough... but the Alps are big and an hour or so later I was starting to fade! Fortunately the top soon came into sight and from the Col it could be all downhill to Chamonix. But there was one downhill I wanted to tackle which involved a short rising traverse towards the Aiguillette des Posettes. The top of this descent was awesome but into the woods it became muddy and slippy and covered in sheep sh&t! I quickly found the reason and the path blocked by the farmer bringing his sheep down the track for the winter! Finally negotiating the sheep and scattering them across the hill I ploughed on down to Le Tours, then to Montroc and Argentiere. There is nothing quite like finishing a downhill, soaking wet, muddy and stinking of sheep pooh and then coming across a large group of folk all dressed up for a wedding!

Desperately in need of food and coke by now I refuelled at the boulangerie in Argentiere just far enough away from the wedding photos! It's amazing how much a bit of food, sugary drink and sunshine can re-energize and with a bit more life back in me headed down to Chamonix on the Petit Balcon Sud to maximise the singletrack, because I hadn't ridden enough over the last couple of days!.

That was it... back in Chamonix and just in time to enjoy a pint before the sun set over Brevent at MBC and reflect on three great days of riding... what a journey!

Stats for the day:
Total Distance ~ 59km
Total Ascending ~3200m
Total Descending ~3800m

More photos of the ride are here and if anyone is after the GPS data or more info for the route drop me a email.

Time now to plan the next adventure......

 

 

 

 





Weekend hiking with Sj and Adam

With Sarahjane and Adam over for the weekend it was time to dig out the walking boots. Making use of the last few open lifts in the valley we decided to head up to Planpraz on the Brevent lift and walk up to the Lacs Noirs to gain some stunning views of the Mont Blanc Massif and the Aiguilles Rouges Nature Reserve.

After a stop for lunch we continued the traverse over to the much more touristy Lac Blanc. With its easy access from the Index Chair Lift and Refuge, its a popular stopping spot for walkers and definetly lacked a remote mountain feel. From here it was a plod down to the Flegere lift and a well deserved drink at Rhodendrums hotel in Les Praz and then to MBC for a birthday beer and burgers all round.

On Saturday we headed over to the Emosson dam, we had all previously climbed the long road up to the dam on bikes so it was a pleasant change to be in a car!! Parking at the dam we negotiated (slowly for some!) the hanging walkways before traversing over to the Loriaz refuge with some stunning views into the Swiss alps. From the refuge the steep climb up to Col de la Terrasse loomed large.  The 600m climb went on and on before the sting in the tale a steep little climb onto the terasse where a large group of kids slightly ruined the mountain ambiance!! However we found a quiet enough spot for a well earned lunch. The descent back to Emosson dam via the Gorge de la Veudale was much more gentle and at times wondered whether it would make for a brilliant descent on the bike... think in the end there would be too many walking sections though.

After two long hikes a "lazy" sunday was in order. With the pool closed in Chamonix we headed to Lake Passy and a very pleasant swim to ease the aching muscles. We then headed to Sixt-Fer-a-Cheval to visit the waterfalls that I had heard about... definetly worth a visit!!


More photos here http://www.flickr.com/photos/paulwestwatson/
 

Weekend of biking and climbing with Ian

 

 

With Ian over for the weekend from Aberdeen it was time to get back onto the mountain bike. With bike quickly rented we were able to get a quick ride in on the Thursday evening. I had thought that the descent over the back of Les Houches down Hugh's Way to St Gervais would be a great warm up to Alps riding and let Ian get used to his bike. However despite a couple of days of dry weather the trail was wet and the mix of clay based soil and tree roots turned this into a slip fest! Both of us ended the ride with cuts and bruises.

The next day I had planned a tour of the Chamonix valley making use of the lifts where possible. From the Flegere lift we descended to Tre-Le-Champ on a great trail, I was loving the technical riding, Ian less so! From here we climbed up to Le Tour  and a slightly dissapointing run on the mtb trail under the top lift. Grabbing a quick Coke at the Refuge de Balme (despite 7euros for two cans of coke we were stictly forbidden from eating our sandwiches!) we then descended into Switzerland on the Les Jeurs trail. An awesome descent of flowing singletrack finally brings you down to the Swiss border at Le Chaterlard. From here it was a bit of a climb up the road to Col des Montets. Feeling the effects of two harder days riding than expecting and nursing some bruises we decided to take some easy trails back to Chamonix and enjoy well earned beer and burgers at the MBC.

On the Saturday we made the most of the continued good weather and headed up to the Index to try to tackle the Chapelle de la Gliere. It's a long (400m) route so we made an early start and despite getting the second lift had to queue for about an hour to get onto the route. It was perhaps a slightly ambitious undertaking for Ian's first outdoor climbing and if hanging around at the bottom didn't help to settle his nerves the polished awkward nature of the first pitch certainly didn't! Still we battled on... the second and third pitches being slightly easier before the fourth led to a tricky corner pitch with some great climbing. The bolting of routes in the alps can mean the climbing is a lot more sustained than UK mountain routes and with 8 pitches still left and energy levels dropping we made the decsion to retreat. This is where the bolting really comes into it's own making the 3 abseils back to terra firma fairly straightforward. Again the early retreat meant we could get the lift down and enjy a few beers at MBC!

By now Ian was definelty after a more relaxing Sunday, so we headed up to the Chezerys slabs and had a very pleasant day climbing in the sunshine. We first tackled Voie Jaune and although the grade was only F4b was 120m of nice sustained climbing. Ian took the chance to "sunbathe" whilst he belayed me on the first pitches of a couple of other routes. With the clouds building and the sun dissapearing behind the hill we headed down the hill for a beer at... yes MBC and an excellent cheese fest at Le Boccalette.


More photos at http://www.flickr.com/photos/paulwestwatson/