Tour de Mont Blanc (Day 2)

Misty Start to Day 2

The first challenge for Day 2 was figuring out how to eat enough Muesli armed only with a coffee cup! Still, after a hearty breakfast there was not a lot to do but pack the bags and prepare for the day. Although a misty start in the valley, the odd glimpse of a mountain peak promised a good day ahead.

From the refuge it was an easy double track downhill and quickly passed those walkers who had set off a few minutes ahead. Saying my farewells to them I certainly got some jealous looks as this is one of the few sections where bike was definetly the easier option! From the refuge you could continue along the track into Courmayer but the main TdMB route soon turns off right up a steep hill. Having heard of a great descent along this section and never one to turn down a challenge set off up the hill. Almost 500m of pushing and hike a bike soon warmed me up though and the added height provided much nicer views of Val Ferret and Val Veni.




Worth the climb

Finally reaching the high point just beyond L arp Vieille Sup, I was rewarded with not only the warmth of the sunshine and stunning views of the peaks rising above the cloud, which I had now climbed above, but a view of a singletrack descent stretching into the distance. This was one of the highlights of the trip, not loosing that hard earned height to quickly but flowing enough to keep the speed up. The track descends into the lift system of Courmayer and pops out at the Refuge Maison Vieille with still another 700m of descent to Courmayer, now visible in the valley below. From here the descent steepens and although the odd bit of double track is mainly sweet singletrack with the odd more technical section.


Streets of Dolonne

Popping out into the picturesque village of Dolonne, with it's tight streets and old buildings the decision to be made was 10.30am too early for Pizza? With a long climb ahead it was a fairly easy descision and stopped at a bakery to pick up a couple of slices.


From Courmayer my route deviated for about the first time from the main Tour de Mont Blanc route and opted to take the tarmac option along Val Ferret rather than the walking route via the Bonatti hut. Beyond Entreves the road quietens down and it's a pleasant enough spin along Val Ferret with dramatic views of the steep paks on the Italian side of the Mont Blanc Massif.

There are plenty of places to stop for a break along the road and I pulled into the Cafe at Arnuva (cant remember the name!) just before the tarmac ends and the track steepens up to Refuge Elena and the Grand Col Ferret beyond. A quick caffine and sugar burst (why would anyone want "diet" or "zero" coke!) and a chance to offload some loose change and lighten the load it was time to climb again. By now I was already at 1769m so had already gained considerable height from Courmayer without really noticing, hopefully the next 800m would be the same. Up to the (closed) Refuge Elena the double track is all rideable but after this point it is time to shoulder the bike again for the last 400m to the Col, with only the last few metres of traverse rideable. With passport at the ready for the border guards (!!) it was into Switzerland and he third country of the tour.

Taking a quick break at the Col to put on warmer clothes, I spotted two riders coming up the track from the Swiss side. The two Belgium riders were the first bikers I had seen on the route and seeing them riding this section, I was pretty jealous of their light bikes and distinct lack of back packs, it turned out they had "support" (wifes) meeting them in Courmayer.

 

The descent into Switzerland was good fun, nothing too technical but nice flowing singletrack (starting to get bored saying this!). Once out the wind I stopped for the second slice of Pizza which I'd smuggled across the border and to take in the quality of the descending encountered on the trip so far.

By now I had given up on the idea of reaching Champex for the night and settled for La Fouly, whilst possible,  it would have been another very long day and with accomodation already reserved it was an easy descision to make.  This meant chance to stop for a coffee at the very Swiss looking refuge at La Peule and enjoy the sunshine. From here I blindly took the main TdMB route which followed double track to the valley bottom, there is an alternative descent from here which would have meant even more singletrack descent.

Arriving in La Fouly, which is a small Swiss Ski resort, I quickly found the accomodation for the night, it was the first building I came to! The decision to stop here for the evening was finalised by the fact that the sun was still shining on the veranda and a beer was definetly called for after another great day of riding. Although more Ski accomodation than mountain hut, the Auberge des Glaciers was a great little place to stay. Warm showers, great food, massive breakfast and stunning views of the Mont Blanc Glaciers which gave me chance to eye up some potential ski touring routes for the winter.

Stats for the Day:
Total distance ~45km
Total ascent ~2000m (all legs!)
Total descent ~2500m

More photos of the trip here.